Povoacao, Azores, Portugal, Aug. 3, 2025 (Lusa) - The volcanic nature, gastronomic delicacies and bucolic landscape make Furnas one of the most visited places in the Portuguese islands of the Azores, but traders and residents are calling for solutions because the parish is not prepared for the “invasion” of tourists.

Nestled between the mountains, the Furnas Valley, which serves as a barometer for tourist activity on the island of São Miguel, is full of tourists looking for the fumaroles that spring from the earth, the thermal springs, or the stew cooked beneath the ground. The presence of several rental cars is noticeable and some people try to bypass the paid access to Lagoa das Furnas.

“Furnas was not made to receive all these people, it was not designed for that, there are too many people, there are strategic areas that are very poorly planned,” Vítor Pereira, a shopkeeper, tells the Lusa news agency, pointing to the buses that pull up to drop people off in the Caldeiras area.

In the height of summer, there are up to ten excursions a day, reports the businessman, who runs a kiosk in Caldeiras. This is one of the situations that leads Vítor Pereira to argue that Furnas needs to be “rethought” for “everyone's safety”, especially in terms of parking and walkways.

“We weren’t prepared for so many people and for this invasion we get in the summer,” he warns.

Even so, the Furnas resident says that there has been a slight drop in sales and the reason may be related to the new road that connects to Ribeira Quente (where one of the island’s most popular beaches is located) without passing through the centre of the parish.

The road, which opened in April, was designed to reduce traffic in Furnas.

“During the day it’s pretty much the same, but at the end of the day it’s a little quieter. One of the reasons may be the new expressway. People coming from the beach don’t pass through here anymore,” he says, echoed by other shopkeepers in Caldeiras.

At this time of day, Vítor's kiosk is especially popular for its corn on the cob cooked in the fumaroles.

“Who would use a volcano to cook food?” asks Manuel García, from Santander (Spain), curiously.

The 37-year-old Spaniard, who decided to visit São Miguel on the recommendation of friends, says he is “loving” the landscapes and does not consider there to be excessive tourism, although he recognises the need to “adapt some areas”.

“There are a lot of cars, sometimes it’s difficult to drive and park. You can see that it’s a growing destination, which is normal. What matters are the landscapes,” he stresses.

Tourism in Furnas is not new, as it was one of the first parishes in the Azores to explore the sector, with reports dating back to the 19th century.

In recent years, however, tourism has grown exponentially, with the Azores breaking records - overnight stays, for example, exceeded 4.2 million in 2024 (up 39% on 2019).

“Everyone who comes to São Miguel passes through Furnas,” says Amílcar Calixto, owner of a souvenir shop, who says he is “missing the emigrants,” who “were few or none” this summer.

However, sales are at the same level as in previous years due to the “explosion” in tourism, an increase that also causes “difficulties” for the businessman who lives in Ponta Delgada (45 kilometres away) and has to “fight” for a parking space every day.

“I don’t think there is too much tourism. Tourism in Furnas is also very much in passing, but there has been very mass tourism lately. The problem is parking, especially in the Caldeiras area, where excessive traffic causes chaos,” he reports.

The need to regulate traffic is also pointed out by Gualter Carvalho, one of the managers of Tonys, one of the most popular restaurants in the parish, which serves stew cooked in the caldeiras to 380 people a day.

"It's not a question of too much tourism. We just need to be better prepared, especially in terms of traffic and parking. They haven't found a solution yet. It annoys those on holiday and it annoys those who live here," he laments.

So far, the number of visitors to Tonys has been "slightly lower" compared to last year, a situation reflected in the number of reservations for July.

"It leads me to believe that it may be due to the cost of travel, accommodation and meals. The rising cost of living. We are also becoming a more expensive destination, which may put some people off," explains Gualter Carvalho.

The trend is also evident among the vendors at Lagoa das Furnas. Among the curious who seek to witness how meals are cooked with volcanic heat, one of the most popular spots is the Amaral family's van.

“Compared to last year, it’s a little weaker,” notes Rui Amaral, emphasising that this does not mean a drop in the number of tourists.

The businessman argues that it is necessary to rethink various spaces in the parish, where there is a lack of parking and “alternative means of transport”.

To avoid paying the entrance fee to Lagoa das Furnas (€3 per adult), dozens of tourists park their cars on the side of the road and walk the rest of the way, a situation that sometimes causes traffic congestion.

“We parked there with the others. I had already seen on the Internet that people did this to avoid paying. I didn't think it was wrong because, after all, we are avoiding burdening nature with more cars,” admits Italian Alice Piras.

The Tuscan native is “enchanted” by the island, particularly the lagoons and the cuisine. When asked to suggest a recommendation to improve the tourist experience, Alice Piras asks that “nature not be spoiled”.

“The island is small, but it (tourism) is growing. You could think about having more public transport, but my suggestion is not to turn it into a mass destination,” she replies.

RPYP/AYLS // AYLS

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